Perseverance, passion and steely determination.
That’s what it means to be a woman in any generation. To honor International Women’s Day, I wanted to explore more about the life of the Widow Clicquot, the most famous of the champagne widows.
A daughter of privilege, Barbe-Nicole Ponsant was expected to live an ornamental existence, yet her life was anything but. Married at age 21 to François Clicquot, then widowed at 27, she continued the wine passion project she and her husband started when they first married. Over time, she immersed herself in the art and science of winemaking, keeping a watch on all aspects from the vineyard to the cellar, to blending and aging the wine, and finally managing the business of champagne both in France and beyond. This was not an easy task in a male dominated industry. She had to work twice as hard to be recognized for her ingenuity and business acumen. Does this sound familiar?
While she did not adore the emperor Napoleon himself, nor many of his policies, under Napoleonic code, widows could assume prominent trade roles within business. Barbe-Nicole was able to use this to her advantage. But the road to prosperity wasn’t as easy as popping a cork. Lean times through the wars created an environment of doubt and anxiety at every turn. International trade embargoes imposed by the British left the first shipments languishing in Amsterdam warehouses, where fluctuating temperatures could ruin the wine. Further restraints against Champagne leveraged by Russia and other countries made international dealings difficult and dangerous.
But she pressed on.
The Year of the Comet Vintage in 1811 proved the stars were aligned to create one the best growing seasons in the Champagne’s history. Conditions were perfect from bud to harvest. Sugar levels that produced both alcohol and bubbles occurred naturally in this vintage. The only thing stopping her was fate. War was raging and threatening to ravage her business.
During this time she bottled her wines, and had the foresight to have the cellar bricked up to seal this vintage from pillagers. This had the added effect of allowing the wine to rest on the lees (the yeast) for longer than usual, creating a spectacularly beautiful, flavorful, and potent sparkler. Her 1811 comet cuvée made her an international celebrity, pushing Moët, who had the largess of the Russian markets, back a few spaces.
Prior to the lifting of international embargoes, she gambled by securing passage of her wines into Russia well before her competitors – a move that could have potentially ruined her, but payed off.
“I didn’t have any hope of doing anything [and] the advance of the Russians over the Rhine was the last straw. And now, out of all the misfortunes came the good business I have had, and I dare to hope for more. We can’t always be unlucky, in my experience. And so, my dear friend: courage, patience, and resignation.”
Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsant
Mazzeo paints a rich, sweeping story from documentation, supposition, and anecdotal reportage. There’s much that she assumes the widow Clicquot must have felt and seen. But this works to create an intriguing tale. This is an engaging and fascinating read about the First Lady of Champagne, and what it means to persevere against all odds.💪🍾
Cheers! 🥂
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