Ice Whine

Icy Loveliness: Ferrante Cab Franc Ice Wine

Icy Loveliness: Ferrante Cab Franc Ice Wine

If you’ve read my blog for a while, you’ll know that I love Ice Wine. And in Ohio, there is a burgeoning industry that I am very happy to enjoy and help promote. Last year, my friends and I ventured out to the far East of Cleveland to enjoy the Ice Wine Festival, if you click on the archives for March 2012, you’ll find pics. But I have a conundrum: to get to any of the events from where I live, you have to travel at least an hour, through a variety of possible weather conditions ranging from snow to snow | wind to snow and freezing snow | rain | slush | yuck mix. I think you see where I’m headed.

The way the North East Ohio (NEO) Ice Wine festival currently works, patrons travel from one winery to the next, sampling the latest offerings and pairing with specialty appetizers or desserts. It can be a lovely afternoon, if the weather gods are smiling. If they’re not, you can find yourself navigating some fairly tricky roads both on major freeways and the unplowed back roads to get to your destination.

I understand that having the Ice Wine festival at the individual estates is a great way to bring people out to the wineries during the off-season; and that’s good for business. I also understand that there are many who live on the East side and so the drive isn’t too difficult. But how about a little love for those of us on the West side or downtown?

An additional Ice Wine festival downtown, perhaps on E4th ~ where the area is closed to all but walking traffic, would bring visitors to the resident restaurants that also experience a bit of a slowdown in the winter months. It could be done as part of the annual East side festival ~ three weekends dedicated to Ice wine and the promotion of NEO wineries. The first weekend could be as it already is; with trips out to the participating wineries. The following weekend could have a more urban flavor, at E4th, and the third at Crocker Park,  providing greater access to downtown and West Side dwellers, respectively.

I know, it sounds a little like putting up a barn and having a floorshow. But I really like the NEO wine industry and the wines they are producing can be really terrific. In September, Crocker Park in Westlake sets up a premier wine event promoting the industry and recent vintages. Their attendance is usually quite high. Downtown wine events are also well-attended.

It’s just a thought but it might be a great way to bring in some other unique wineries from the surrounding regions as well as the East. And it might be a way to open up the NEO wine market to all of North East Ohio.

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

Hollywood and Vines: Top 5 Wine Movies

Action! Coppola's Director's Cut Zin

Action! Coppola’s Director’s Cut Zin

I love movies. I love them almost as much as I love wine. And with this being Oscar weekend, I thought I’d list a few that I enjoyed this past week ~ two documentaries and three dramatic.  I paired one of the movies with a rich and beautiful 09 Francis Ford Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel. I’d never tried it before and gave it two thumbs up.

So, for your consideration, and in no particular order:

Blood Into Wine (2010) ~ 90% documentary and 10% great marketing, Blood Into Wine stylishly illustrates Maynard James Keenan and winemaker Eric Glomski’s journey and struggles in the world of making Arizona wine. Keenan, drummer and frontman to some great bands such as Tool, A Perfect Circle and Puscifer, discusses how something ‘clicked’ for him about wine, leading him on a journey of ‘self-discovery’ and compelled him, ‘to know more…and see how far I can take this as an artist.” For Eric Glomski, a background in river ecology and early experiments with apple wine, made it clear how winemaking “helps us understand our relationship with the earth. And how wine is an expression of home.” The doc explains the growing seasons, the trials and tribulations of being a frontier winemaker in a rough northern Arizona terrain. From the political issues of water rights, to Javelina stripping one-third of their Sangiovese crop, to winter frost (which happens in higher elevation AZ vineyards), winemaking in Arizona is not for poseurs. For the entry-level wine drinker, it educates about the process and history of winemaking in a way that is entertaining and cool. Keenan is a rare celebrity winemaker who knows what he’s talking about, admits that he’s still learning and, literally, isn’t afraid to get his hands dirty. His story about his mother and the pride he has for Caduceus Cellars‘ ’07 Nagual de Judith Cab Sav (named in her honor) is very touching. While it occasionally had the subtle feel of a marketing video, that’s okay. I have no problem with promoting awareness and generating buzz for a burgeoning wine region.

Mondovino (2004) ~ This documentary by Jonathan Nossiter examines the conflict between big wine, in this case Mondavi, and the smaller European winemaking families trying to preserve their land and culture. It’s a whirlwind flight from Brazil, into the vineyards of Burgundy, and Sardinia, on to the gilded drawing rooms of Italy, and finally the sprawling colossus of the Mondavi vineyards in Napa. Early on, Nossiter introduces you to Michel Rolland, a wine consultant, who advises an international array of wineries in making their wines to suit a more “uniform, Mondavi style.” He uses the term ‘micro-oxygenation’ which such frequency and at almost every vinery he visits, you’d think it was his middle name. When asked about ‘diversity’ in winemaking, he replies, “That’s why there are so many bad wines.” Ouch. It goes on to illustrate the power of the Mondavi marketing machine and how the smaller ‘generation’ winemakers must, in essence, conform or be cast out. I think the point Nossiter is trying to make is that in order for the smaller wineries to compete at all in an ever expanding market, they have to allow Mondavi and it’s marketing power to take over, which means selling out their own expression, or terroir, to a standardized style of wine. It’s referred to as ‘globalization’ of wine and the narrative raises some very interesting points, to be sure. If there’s no diversity or personal expression/signature in wine, what’s the point?

A Good Year (2006) ~ Hmmm, my best nutshell description: icy Master of the Universe-inherits vineyard-meets and falls for sexy French chick-life dramatically changes. Russell Crowe plays Max Skinner, a British financier who, in the midst of his chaotic life, finds out he is the only living relative of his beloved, yet forgotten, Uncle Henry (Albert Finney). He becomes the default owner of his uncle’s French Chateau and adjoining vineyard. At the start, he sees it as just a piece of real estate, to be cashed in and sold off. What he doesn’t expect is that his life will be transformed (voila!) in a mere 7 days. Told partially through flashbacks to sunnier days of fun and wine with Uncle Henry, it’s nicely romantic but predictable ~ there’s even a mention of… Mondavi (ha). Still, it’s good to see Russell Crowe in something a little lighter and no phones were thrown. There’s a quick, ironic scene where Max makes a Lance Armstrong reference, which is funny, but now for a very different reason.The loose ends tie up a little too neatly but the beautiful shots of the Chateau and vineyard make up for that. The point is more than hit home that, try as you might, you can’t ever really outrun the ties that truly bind; for memories, love and wine will inevitably stand the test of time. Oh, the sexy French chick? Marion Cotillard.

Sideways (2004) ~ Starring the great Paul Giamatti, it’s probably one of the most famous movies about wine so I don’t think I need to go into a plot synopsis. Suffice to say,  it probably cast the most light on the whole Merlot vs. Pinot debate. My favorite scene is when Virginia Madsen’s character, Maya, waxes poetic on what she loves about wine; how wine continues to evolve over time, gaining complexity and how it is, actually, alive. Much like love. Amid the comedy and chaos of the movie, this is the scene that distills what it is to be a true lover of wine.

Bottle Shock (2008) ~ If you can get past the really bad wig that Chris Pine has to wear, Bottle Shock is an interesting look at the fledgling California wine industry in the mid-’70’s. Loosely based on a true story, it follows two tales. The first is the struggle between a failing California winemaker Jim Barrett (Bill Pullman) and his slacker son, Bo (Pine) to produce the perfect wine. The second, British wine educator Steven Spurrier (Alan Rickman), living in Paris, trying to find a bold way to promote his (at the time) unremarkable business. On the advice of an American friend, Spurrier creates an international wine competition to find the best of California to compete with the French. It illustrates the beginning of the globalization of wine and how a snubbed wine region can rise to the occasion and triumph. The message: sometimes you can make something too perfect; and that letting go is when perfection can truly be achieved. Woah. I think I need a drink.

This week, I watched some great wine movies, and enjoyed a new favorite wine. I’m ready for the big night with a chilled bottle of Chandon.

For those of you who, like me, are still waiting for that lost invite to the Governor’s Ball, I hope you enjoy the show.

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

Lovey Dovey

Will You Be Mine?

Will You Be Mine?

It’s been a busy week ~ what with Mardi Gras festivities and now Valentine’s Day. Chinese food is on the menu for our dinner tonight (I didn’t really feel like cooking). I have no idea whether the ’07 Villa Puccini Toscana is appropriate with egg rolls, won ton soup and sweet and sour chicken, and that’s okay. I’m just going to relax, enjoy the night with HubbyDoug, my girl, Andrea, and a fun meal together.

I wish you all a very Happy Valentine’s Day!

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

Phat Tuesday

Sweets for the sweetest Mardi Gras!

Sweets for the sweetest Mardi Gras!

 

Joyeux Mardi Gras! Ah, Fat Tuesday ~ traditionally, it was the day when all good people used up their entire stores of butter, flour and milk to prepare for the Lenten fast. Hence the plethora of doughnuts, fried batter and pancakes. This year, I wanted to try a traditional Fat Tuesday treat: Beignets. I’d never made them before and wasn’t sure what wine to serve with them. Ice wine would be an obvious choice, since it pairs well with anything sweet. Looking in my little collection, I discovered a few alternatives: Warre’s Tawny Porto, Osborne Pedro Ximinez Sherry, and an 08 Amador Foothill Late Harvest Semillon.

I thought about throwing in a rich, red Zinfandel for a thrill but worried that by the end of the tasting, I’d be showing the neighbors my Mardi Gras beads ~ which tends to make things very awkward at the next cul de sac cookout.

I got my dough ready, cut up into rectangles and made sure I had enough powdered sugar. When the oil gets up to temperature, they cook pretty quickly. A warning: when you take these little bits of heaven out of the oil, let them sit a bit. They’re really hot. After I let my lips cool, I did the first pairing with the Late Harvest Semillon. It was refreshing , and the honey-pear essence was a nice counterbalance to the warm, sugar vibe of the beignet. The second offering was the Warre’s Tawny Port, which had a lovely deep cherry scent and flavor that offset the delicious deep-fried taste. The third pairing was with the Osborne Pedro Ximinez Sherry. It poured like molasses and tasted like a little Halloween kiss in my glass. I found myself wanting chocolate. Maybe next time, I’ll use powdered sugar and drizzled chocolate.

As a side-note: When I looked up the term PHAT, it was defined as an acronym for Pretty, Hot and Tempting. That really does describe the beignets, so I thought that it was appropriate for this post’s title. I’m sure if you looked it up on Urban Dictionary, you’d find a very different meaning. So don’t do that. Wait. You just did, didn’t you? Good news for you; tomorrow is Ash Wednesday, so you can atone for that last click.

It was a joyous Fat Tuesday filled with a new favorite treat, and some intriguing, alternate pairings that I might not otherwise have chosen. After all, variety is the spice of life.

Hey, wanna see my Mardi Gras beads?!

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

Higher Elevation: Burger, Frites and an Interesting Glass of Riesling

2011 Vineland Estates Elevation Riesling

2011 Vineland Estates Elevation Riesling

Snow piled up over much of the country this weekend, except in the Cleve. Cleveland, which tends to get many of Old Man Winter’s biggest dumps, was relatively sunny and clear. It was as perfect for barbecue cooking as you can get in February. And while we didn’t jump into our shorts and T-shirts, being outside wasn’t too bad. On the menu: Spiced chicken burgers, home made pommes frites ~ which sounds way cooler than French fries: fresh greens and a 2011 Vineland Estates Elevation Riesling. I rarely drink white wine during the winter; favoring reds for their robust qualities and ability to help keep me warm. But since the temperature rose a bit, I wanted to enjoy some lighter fare with my pseudo-summery dinner.

I’ve enjoyed Vineland Estate wines before so I was looking forward to pairing this one with the dinner. Looking in my collection, I discovered it was one of the last remaining guests from the past summer. I gave it the 15 minute rule and made sure to aerate as I poured it into my glass. It was very clear with a color of light straw. In the above picture, it looks almost like water, doesn’t it? This was deceiving. Based on the color, I thought it was going to be almost too thin but it packed a sweet and refreshing mix of lemons with a crisp green apple finish. The mouthfeel was grippy and dry and it had a sharp, oak-y grape vibe on the nose. At first, I thought it wouldn’t really pair well, but it surprised me by providing a nice balance to the spiced chicken and off-set the earthy quality of the potatoes.

The forecast in the Cleve for the rest of the week is changeable. But for this past weekend at least, I began to think that spring might actually be on the horizon. For those who spent their weekend digging out from the blizzard, I wish you well, and I feel your pain. I tackle snow the old school way; with a shovel…and a prayer.

I hope that there was a favorite drink as a reward for all your hard work ~ you earned it.

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

What’s a girl to do…?

Image vis Anne Taintor

Image via Anne Taintor

That’s a really good question. The past two weeks I’ve been a bit under the weather. And I think it’s, in part, because of the weather ~ the cold, snowy climes have made me somewhat blue and very sinus-y. And having sinusitis is not very conducive to drinking wine or feeling like doing much of anything. But I’m now on the mend and am working on some new posts.

I hope that all of you are faring well this winter and are able to find inspiration in much of what you see.

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

Field Trip ~ Colaneri Estate Winery, Niagara.on.the.Lake ON

@ Colaneri Estate Winery

@ Colaneri Estate Winery

One of the things I love about going home to Niagara for the holidays; apart from seeing family and friends, is picking a new winery to try. Since I left almost 5 years ago, there has been an explosion of great wineries with something to please every palate.

When HubbyDoug and I were walking the main street we slipped into a little bar for a glass to take away the chill. We were treated to a Colaneri Estate Winery ’09 Cabernet Corposo. I noticed a distinctive richness and old world vibe from the very first sip. To be honest, my experience with many Niagara reds has been somewhat disappointing. They have a tendency towards a lightness and a green, vegetal quality that I don’t always care for. While they eventually settle into a pleasant flavor, it’s generally when you get to the bottom of the glass. I like a red to look me in the eye as it gently takes me by the collar and eases me back into my chair. This wine winked as it looked me in the eye.

I had to find out what made it so unique. A trip to the winery became my top priority.

Colaneri wines are made using an appassimento process that dates back to ancient Roman times. Harvested grapes are hung to dry before winemaking, to remove any excess water, thus shriveling the grapes. And why would you want this kind of shrinkage? All the better to concentrate the sugars and flavors in the resulting wine.

  • Recioto ~ also an ancient style of winemaking and also incorpporating the drying of grapes to concentrate the sugar content. Recioto may be red or white, dry or sweet. The dryer wines in this style are Amarone which can be intense at 16% alcohol.
  • Ripasso is a style that means to revisit or go over. It involves a double fermentation process in which additional dried grape skins are added. The sugar content has been heightened by drying and this increases the final alcohol and phenolic content in the wine which is known as passito.

Our winery guide, Pam, explained that Colaneri was one of only three Niagara region wineries to use this process. Their wines are kiln-dried, using both greenhouses with industrial fans and tobacco kilns. ”Since the kilns were no longer being used to dry tobacco, they have been put to use in winemaking”, she said. In the tobacco kilns, the fans push air up through the floor; where the greenhouse fans circulate the air around the fruit. The drying process can take up to two months with skin contact completed within 7-10 days.

After harvest, the grapes for Amarone and Recioto are set aside to dry in trays in kilns, or are hung in lofts ~ the hanging and careful placement in trays allows for complete air circulation so no mold develops. There they stay for approximately four months after which the semidried grapes are crushed and fermented with the grape skins. The grapes not used for Amarone or Recioto are crushed and fermented to be used later.

Once prolonged skin contact has finished, the wine is stored for aging. The additional wine (that had been fermented seperately) is introduced by being pumped over the Amarone | Recioto skins, thus starting the second fermentation. The saturated skins are still quite full of unfermented sugars, making them high in aromatics and tannins.

It was time to began our tasting with a spectrum of lighter fare: Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurtztraminer, Chenin Blanc. The Chenin Blanc was my favorite; it had a taste of pear, pineapple and cotton candy (yum) with lots of citrus on the nose. Pam then took us into the reds starting the Red Blend ~ a combination of Cab Sav, Syrah, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. She mentioned that it was their everyday wine that pairs well with everything from pizza to red meats to chocolate.

We then turned our attention to the Cabernet that we had enjoyed the day before. The scent of rich molasses was prominent on the nose with sweet tobacco, blackberry and raspberry resonating on the palate. Awesome.

The Cabernet Franc was rich and flavorful, with an distinct essence of plum. Pam mentioned that some who tried it but don’t enjoy prunes/plums weren’t always fans. She recommended pairing with tomato-y dishes to counterbalance the prune essence.

We spend a good part of the afternoon sipping and learning a lot about some very special wines. Pam was friendly, knowledgeable and made the field trip to Colaneri so much fun.

I came away from the trip feeling happy to have discovered a jewel of a Niagara wine. I’ll make a point to look for more wines created using this time-honored method.

Cheers!

©TheWineStudent, 2013

Cool Yule

It’s Christmas Eve! And this year I’m giving a nod to my Canadian roots by making a traditional homemade Tortiere. Since it’s a pie that combines both ground beef and pork, I had to think about the type of wine I wanted to pair it with. We’re also going to have steamed crab and caramelized brussels sprouts, so there are going to be a few taste sensations going on. To my way of thinking, ground beef isn’t heavy enough to warrant cracking a brawny Cabernet. And coupling it with the ground pork would steer me to a lighter but flavourful Pinot. Throw the crab into the mix and you see my dilemma. Some might say that Chardonnay would be de rigueur.

I’m generally not one to stick to the rules so I looked at our little collection and chose…an 07 Chateau Bianca Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley. It was a thoughtful gift from our friend Jeff and 07 was a good year for Pinot in the valley. I have a difficult time drinking white wine this time of year. And it may be because I associate whites with summer (narrow-minded, I know). Or maybe there’s enough white on the ground without it being in my glass.

I want to take this time to wish you all a very Merry Christmas! I hope that you are able to gather close to those you love and share the joy of the season.  And if there are those you love who have left for more heavenly places, I’ll join you in raising a glass to them.

Cheers!

Wine and Dine

It’s holiday time and there’s nothing better than celebrating with a dinner out with good friends. Our pick for the night was a lively Boscaini Carlo Valpolicella Ripasso. While it was somewhat astringent on the nose, it had a hint of something…but what exactly was it? Our friend, Nick, nailed it: Anise ~ similar to black licorice, though not as heavy. The first taste was of a bold, black cherry that gradually swirled into a delicate chocolate finish. It provided a smooth, mellow compliment to my steak and crab cake entree.

I love the holidays. They give everyone a great opportunity to slow down, enjoy a few moments together and create new memories to savor. In light of the most recent tragic events, this becomes even more important. And if you can include a great bottle of wine, so much the better.

Cheers!

Spending an Evening with an Icon

I was celebrating the end of an amazing day in the Cleve. It was sunny, warm and beautiful. As I came in from my late afternoon walk I happened to look up at the treeline, just as the sun’s last rays reflected burnt orange off the remaining leaves. I knew it was a day I might not see again for quite some time. So to shake off the chill and toast the day, I decided to do a random pick from my wine rack. I chose a 2010 Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir from New Zealand.

It was a bit lighter on the nose with subtle vanilla notes that I had sniff a few times to really define. It was like when you know what a scent is but can’t quite place it. The color was a bright claret but the most interesting thing was the lingering essence that I’ve never experienced before: Licorice. And it wasn’t something that I really became aware of until about halfway through the first glass. The licorice vibe provided a really pleasing warmth and gave a little more zest to the wine experience.

I thought it was a great little find to celebrate the remains of a great little day.

Cheers!